丁字裤不再受年轻女性青睐

A young generation of women is discovering a new brand of sexy in the most unlikely of places: their grandmothers’ underwear drawers.

年轻一代女性从一个最不可思议的地方发现了性感新品牌：祖母和外祖母的内衣橱。

“When I walk into a lingerie store, I’m always like, ‘O.K., which drawer in here is for the grannies?’ ” Daphne Javitch, 35, said of her predilection for ample-bottomed undies. That preference led Ms. Javitch, back in 2010, to found Ten Undies, a line with a cult following that sells cotton full-bottom bikinis, boy shorts and high-waist briefs not unlike the kind immortalized in “Bridget Jones’s Diary.” (“Hello, mommy.”) Ten’s wares are comfortable and practical, to be sure, but that’s hardly the only draw.

“每次走进内衣店，我总会想，‘好吧，给老奶奶的衣橱在哪里？’”35岁的达芙妮·贾维什(Daphne Javitch)说，她偏爱宽底内裤。所以2010年，她创立了小众品牌Ten Undies，专门生产纯棉全底比基尼、男孩式平角内裤和高腰三角裤，有点像《BJ单身日记》(Bridget Jones’s Diary)经典的那一款。（“你好啊老妈。”）Ten生产的内衣舒服实用，但这还不是唯一的优点。

“Within millennial and Generation Y consumer groups, it’s considered cool to be wearing full-bottom underwear,” said Bernadette Kissane, an apparel analyst at the market intelligence firm Euromonitor. “Thongs have had their moment.”

“千禧一代和Y一代的消费者群体觉得穿全底内裤才酷，”市场智库Euromonitor公司的服装分析师伯纳黛特·吉萨尼(Bernadette Kissane)说。

Data provided by the research company NPD Group back her up. Sales of thongs decreased 7 percent over the last year, while sales of fuller styles — briefs, boy shorts and high-waist briefs — have grown a collective 17 percent.

调研公司NPD集团提供的数据证实了她的说法。去年T型内裤的销量降低了7%，全底内裤（包括三角裤、男孩式平角裤和高腰三角裤）的销量总共增长了17%.

Erica Russo, the fashion director for accessories, cosmetics and intimate apparel at Bloomingdale’s, said that indeed there has been a “shift in the business.” She noted that the trend is in line with the higher-waist and roomier pants styles that have dominated fashion this season. Perhaps motivated by the same kind of contrarianism that helped elevate Birkenstocks and fanny packs, young women are embracing “granny panties” — and not just for laundry day.

布鲁明戴尔(Bloomingdale’s)的配件、化妆品与内衣时尚总监埃丽卡·罗素(Erica Russo)说，“生意上确实有变化”。她指出，本季高腰的肥大裤子流行引领了这股风尚。或许是同那种促进了勃肯鞋和腰包走红的逆向思维一样，如今的年轻女性确实开始钟爱“祖母式内裤”——而且不仅仅是在洗衣日那天。

“I only wear granny panties,” Julia Baylis, a willowy 22-year-old, declared proudly. Ms. Baylis and her best friend, Mayan Toledano, 27, design the boutique clothing label Me and You. Their best seller is a pair of white cotton underpants with the word “feminist” printed in pink bubble letters across the rear. Since the line’s introduction on April 7, the panties have sold out.

“我只穿祖母式内裤，”22岁，身材苗条的茱莉亚·贝里斯(Julia Baylis)骄傲地宣布。贝里斯和她最好的朋友，27岁的马伊安·托勒达诺(Mayan Toledano)开创了精品时装品牌“我和你”(Me and You)。她们销量最好的产品是一款白色纯棉内裤，整个后部用粉红色泡泡字体印着“女权主义”。自从4月7日开售以来，这款内裤一直供不应求。

Besides sales, the “feminist underwear” has inspired countless Instagram “belfies” (that’s a selfie for the behind) from Me and You customers eager to show off their feminist convictions as well as their pert posteriors.

除了销售，这款“女权主义内裤”还激发了“你和我”的消费者们在Instagram上无止境的“后自拍”（belfies，就是从身后自拍）风潮，她们乐于张扬自己对女性主义的肯定以及时尚的臀部。

Ms. Baylis and Ms. Toledano are part of an all-female creative collective founded by Petra Collins called the Ardorous that explores feminist topics from a millennial point of view through collaborative and solo art projects. For the generation that counts both Beyoncé and Lena Dunham as feminist icons, female sexuality is wielded for one’s own pleasure.

贝里斯与托勒达诺是皮特拉·科林斯(Petra Collins)创立的全女性创意系列“Ardorous”的一部分，它旨在从千禧一代的角度，通过集体和个人艺术项目探索女性主义题材。这一代人把碧昂斯(Beyoncé)和莉娜·杜汉姆(Lena Dunham)视为女性主义偶像，认为女人的性感应该源于自身的快乐。

“Most lingerie is designed to appeal to a man,” Ms. Baylis said. “For us, that’s not even a consideration. This is underwear you wear totally for you. Maybe no one will see it, or maybe you’ll put it up on Instagram to share with everyone you know.”

“大多数内衣是为了取悦男性而设计的，”贝里斯说。“我们从来没想过这回事。身上穿的内衣应该完全是为你自己设计的。可能根本没有人看，又或者你会把它放到Instagram上来和你认识的人分享。”

That’s not to say Me and You’s customers don’t want to feel sexy; they absolutely do. “What’s sexy for us is being natural and comfortable,” Ms. Toledano said.

这不是说“我和你”的消费者们不想性感，她们也想。“对于我们来说，自然舒服才是性感，”托勒达诺说。

And if seducing a man isn’t the goal, it can be a welcome side effect.

如果诱惑男人不是目标，这可能是一种很受欢迎的副作用。

“I think there’s a widespread misconception that men are into pearl thong, lace contraptions,” said Ms. Javitch of Ten Undies. “To be honest, men are into girls in T-shirts and white underwear.”

“我觉得有一种广为流传的误解，觉得男人就喜欢珍珠T裤、蕾丝小玩意儿，”Ten Undies的贾维什说。“诚实地说，男人还是喜欢女孩穿T恤衫和白色内裤。”

It’s a notion mainstream lingerie companies have been slow to embrace. As the gender gap among owners of small businesses continues to narrow, female entrepreneurs are becoming increasingly empowered to fill the void in the market.

主流内衣公司缓慢地接受了这个观念。随着小公司设计产品的性别差异开始缩小，女性企业家开始慢慢有了权力，填补这一市场空缺。

When Greer Simpkins, 28, began doing research for her own lingerie line, she visited a Victoria’s Secret store in New York to observe how women shopped for underwear.

28岁的格丽尔·辛普金斯(Greer Simpkins)为她自己的内衣品牌做研究时，去了纽约一家“维多利亚的秘密”(Victoria’s Secret)门店，观察女人们都买什么内衣。

“I noticed that a lot of women would come in with a friend, and they’d be asking: ‘Do you like this? Do you think he will like it?’ ” said Ms. Simpkins, who previously worked as a counselor to young girls at McLean Hospital, a psychiatric hospital in Belmont, Mass. “They’d be thinking about everyone else but themselves,” an attitude she thought the store encouraged. She was also frustrated with how many trends, colors and frills the lingerie industry pushed each season.

“我注意到很多女人都是和朋友一起来，她们会问：‘你喜欢这个吗？你觉得他会喜欢吗？’”辛普金斯说，她之前在马萨诸塞州贝尔蒙特的精神病医院麦克林医院(McLean Hospital)给年轻女孩当顾问，“她们在乎其他人的看法，却不在乎自己的，”她觉得商店也鼓励她们这种想法。每一季，内衣工业内推行的很多潮流、色彩和装饰也让她觉得困惑。

“Most women just want something basic for every day that will make them look and feel good,” she said.

“大多数女人只想每一天穿最基本的东西，看上去不错，自己也觉得舒服，”她说。

So, in December, Ms. Simpkins introduced an underwear line with just one design: a white cotton panty with an unusually high cut and narrow back. The name, Hello Beautiful, is meant as an affirmation. She already counts Chloë Sevigny, an arbiter of all things cool, as a fan.

所以，去年12月，辛普金斯推出了一个内衣品牌，只有一款设计：白色纯棉内裤，有着非同寻常的高叉剪裁和狭窄的后部。它的名字叫“你好，美丽”(Hello Beautiful)，代表了一种肯定。“酷”的仲裁者，科洛·塞维尼(Chloë Sevigny)已经成了这款内裤的粉丝。

Fuller styles are a welcome alternative for Myla Dalbesio, a size 10 underwear model. “The high-waisted and high-cut styles hark back to a time when different body shapes were in style,” she said, adding that many larger women find high-rise briefs flattering because they define the waist and cover areas a woman may be less comfortable with.

米拉·达尔贝西奥(Myla Dalbesio)也欢迎这股全底内裤风潮，她是内裤模特，穿10码。“高腰和高叉风格带我们回到不同体型都可以被包括在时尚之内的时代，”她还说，很多体型较大的女人觉得高叉三角裤好看，是因为她们觉得女人可能对自己的腰部和私处感到不自在。

Ms. Dalbesio said she was hopeful that the greater diversity of offerings was a sign that the lingerie industry is beginning to recognize that “there is not one ‘ideal body,’ but a plethora of them.”

达尔贝西奥说，她希望多样化的风潮能让内衣工业开始认为“‘理想身材’不止一种，而是有很多种。”

In the end, it is about options.

说到底，这是一个选择问题。

“There’s nothing wrong with wanting to be more traditionally sexy and wearing a thong; that doesn’t mean you’re not a feminist,” Ms. Toledano said. “This is a step toward embracing more variety in what’s offered.”

“想穿T裤，展现传统的性感，这没有错；这不意味着你不是一个女性主义者，”托勒达诺说，“不同的内裤只是通往接受多样化的一步。”