豹纹装大家庭扩张 现身纽约时装周

It started with Natalie Massenet. The Net-a-Porter founder and British Fashion Council chairman was spotted pairing a leopard print Marc Jacobs skirt with a leopard print Valentino Rockstud clutch at New York Fashion Week; the following week in London Kate Moss was seen front row at Topshop’s show in a pair of black leopard print Hysteric Glamour jeans, then, at Paris Fashion Week, stylist Giovanna Battaglia turned up in a vintage early 1990s leopard print Ala?a dress at the designer’s retrospective opening at the Palais Galliera.

一切皆肇事于娜塔莉?马斯内(Natalie Massenet)，这位Net-a-Porter网店创始人兼英国时装协会主席身穿马克?雅可布(Marc Jacobs)豹纹衬衣，手拎华伦天奴(Valentino) Rockstud豹纹手提包现身纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week)；接下来的一周，在伦敦，凯特?莫斯(Kate Moss)身穿日本Hysteric Glamour潮牌牛仔裤就坐于Topshop时装发布会前排；而后的巴黎时装周(Paris Fashion Week)，设计师乔瓦娜?巴塔吉利亚(Giovanna Battaglia)身穿上世纪90年代初的老款阿亚拉(Ala?a)裙装现身在加列拉宫(Palais Galliera)举行的个人作品回顾展开幕式。

By the time Andrea Mitchell, NBC News’ chief foreign affairs correspondent, wore a black leopard print trench while delivering her nightly report on the Syrian crisis the trend was official: animal spots are big news.

到全球广播公司新闻台(NBC News)首席外交事务记者安德莉亚?米切尔(Andrea Mitchell)身穿黑色豹纹风衣、在晚间新闻播报叙利亚危机时，整个时尚潮流算是尘埃落定：动物斑纹装登上了头条新闻。

“With the amount of prints women are now dressing in, leopard really is the ‘new black’,” says stylist Isabel Dupré, whose equivalent to the little black dress is an Isabel Marant leopard print number she considers her fail-safe go-to. “There is something that reads expensive and ‘fashion’ in the print when it is worn right,” she adds. “Most of the time it’s as timeless as wearing black.”

“随着女士穿着动物斑纹装渐趋增多，豹纹成为名符其实的流行趋势，”设计师伊莎贝尔?杜普雷(Isabel Dupré)说，她的“小黑礼服”(Little black dress)是伊莎贝尔?玛兰(Isabel Marant)豹纹装，她认为它能适用于各种场合。“豹纹装只要穿着得体，就会透出奢侈与‘时尚’气息，”她补充道。“多数情况下，穿黑色豹纹装从不落伍。”

“Leopard print really is the new classic,” agrees Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Women today should look at leopard as a great investment piece and not something to shy away from because it’s too bold or too old or too young.” Helen David, head of womenswear at Harrods, says that because designers have offered leopard print in paler tones for autumn, it has become a more versatile day-to-evening option. “This season leopard print has firmly established itself,” says David, who bought everything from Roland Mouret’s multicoloured leopard eveningwear to a 3.1 Phillip Lim leather biker jacket with leopard print sleeves for the department store.

“豹纹表现的是真正的新古典风格，”萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)高级时尚总监珂丽恩?谢林(Colleen Sherin)对此表示赞同。“如今的女士应把豹纹装视作奇货可居之物，不能因它太过醒目、老气横秋或是朝气蓬勃而有意规避它。”哈罗德百货(Harrods)女装部总管海伦?大卫(Helen David)说。由于设计师在今秋时装季推出淡色调豹纹服装，它已成为左右逢源的服饰，能满足工作与社交的各种需求。“这个秋冬季，豹纹装已经牢牢地在时尚界站稳阵脚，”大卫说，她本人也购买了各种豹纹装，从罗兰?穆雷(Roland Mouret)的多色豹纹晚装到菲利普?林3.1(Phillip Lim 3.1)为百货公司设计的豹纹袖款摩托夹克，品类繁多。

She is not the only one. Walk into a Burberry shop anywhere in the world and you will be faced by a plethora of animal spots; leopard print sleeves on a gabardine trench, a pair of metal bow-front patterned pumps, leopard mink trim on a tan drawstring leather bag, a below-the-knee calfskin printed pencil skirt, matching gloves or even an outsized leopard print umbrella.

类似者大有人在。走进全球任何一家博柏利(Burberry)门店，看到的是形形色色的动物斑纹装——带豹纹袖的华达呢风衣、弓背形金属图案的宫廷鞋（脚面露出较多，没有绑定固定部分，但脚踝部可有系带）、豹貂皮饰边的棕褐色拉带皮包、中长款小牛皮纹紧身窄裙，它们用手套甚至特大号豹纹雨伞搭配，相得益彰。

There is no doubt then, that the preferred print of screen sirens Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor – not to mention 73-year-old Raquel Welch, who wore a leopard print dress at a pre-Emmy awards party last month – is making a roaring comeback. And the responses of designers and retailers suggest that it’s here to stay.

毫无疑问，昔日影视界时尚女王索菲娅?罗兰(Sophia Loren)与伊丽莎白?泰勒(Elizabeth Taylor)钟爱的豹纹装正强势回归——更甭提73岁的拉奎尔?韦尔奇(Raquel Welch)了，她身穿豹纹裙出席了上月的艾美奖预热晚会(pre-Emmy awards party)。设计师与零售商反响强烈，表明豹纹装前景一片看好。

Eva Chen, Lucky magazine editor-in-chief, calls it the “Jenna Lyons effect”, crediting the J Crew president and creative director with “informing women on how to mix and match sailor stripes, animal prints and out-there florals as you would a black or grey T-shirt”.

《Lucky》时尚杂志华裔主编陈怡桦(Eva Chen)称之为“詹娜?莱昂斯效应”，她把这归功于时尚品牌J Crew总裁兼创意总监詹娜?莱昂斯(Jenna Lyons)，对方“向女士灌输如何把水手条纹、动物斑纹以及异乎寻常的花纹等混搭至黑色或灰色T恤衫上”。

“It’s a print that real women, not the red carpet divas, have made their own little by little,” says Stefano Gabbana, who recalls that leopard print dresses were considered daring – scandalous, even – when he co-founded Dolce & Gabbana in 1985. “For us, leopard print is universal, irrespective of age or profession,” adds his design partner Domenico Dolce.

“豹纹装是‘真女人’（而非歌剧女主角）一点一滴打拼出来的天地，”斯特凡诺?加巴纳(Stefano Gabbana)说，他回忆自己1985年与多梅尼科?多尔切(Domenico Dolce)合创杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)品牌时，穿豹纹装被视为惊世骇俗之举——甚至可以说有伤风化。“我们觉得豹纹装适合各个年龄段、各种职业，”加巴纳的设计伙伴多尔切补充道。

Fellow Italian designer Roberto Cavalli has long had a love for these patterns. “Nature created the animal print and I just put my own twist on it,” he says. “What I appreciate most about leopard is its strong graphic identity that also lends itself to interpretation. As long as you wear it with confidence and ease, leopard will always be empowering.”

他俩的意大利同行罗伯特?卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)长久以来一直很喜欢这些豹纹图样。“大自然的造化缔造了这些动物斑纹，本人只是稍作改动而已，”他说。“我最欣赏豹纹，因为它能很好地通过图样体现穿着者的身份，还能起到一定的诠释作用。只要自信而轻松地穿着豹纹装，它永远显得那么英姿飒爽。”

Empowering it may be, but it is best to tread carefully while wearing the print in a business setting. “The more black you pair it with, the more that it will help mute the print but still allow it to flash,” says Alexandra Lebenthal, president and chief executive of municipal bond dealer Lebenthal & Company, who still counts her 10-year-old Equipment leopard print jacket as a wardrobe staple.

尽管英姿飒爽，但出席商务活动时，穿着豹纹装走起路来要尽可能谨小慎微。“你搭配其它服饰的颜色越黑，就越能中和豹纹装带来的咄咄逼人气势，但仍可让豹纹装光彩夺目，”市政债券交易公司Lebenthal & Company总裁兼CEO亚历桑德罗?莱贝撒尔(Alexandra Lebenthal)说，她仍把穿了10年的Equipment豹纹夹克视作自己的“镇箱之宝”。

At Saks, Sherin advises the feline-shy to ease into the print with an accessory, such as a loafer or as a treatment on a lapel, in lining or as outerwear. “Wear leopard in a place you want to draw the eyes to,” she says.

在萨克斯第五大道，谢林建议：不喜欢猫科动物斑纹者可用配饰慢慢过渡至豹纹的办法，如穿双乐福鞋、对翻领及内衬稍作改动、或是用外套来搭配。“把豹纹放在自己希望引发关注的部位，”她说。

But at Net-a-Porter, the current popularity of the print was almost a missed opportunity. Having decided to take a break from the ubiquitous pattern this season, fashion director Holli Rogers dropped her spot-free mandate after seeing designers who normally shy away from leopard – from Stella McCartney to Mother of Pearl – embrace it with fervour: “Leopard print felt fresh again – something I wasn’t expecting this season at all.” And her advice on how to embrace the look? “My number one tip is to have fun with leopard,” she says. “Fearlessly experiment.”

但目前最流行的豹纹装差点与Net-a-Porter网店失之交臂。时尚总监霍利?罗杰斯(Holli Rogers)原打定主意与今年秋冬季无处不在的豹纹式样“决裂”，但在亲眼目睹从斯特拉?麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)到Mother of Pearl、这些昔日规避豹纹图样的设计师都对它顶礼膜拜后，也摈弃了不用动物斑纹的设计信条：“这个秋冬季豹纹再次迸发青春气息——这是我压根未曾预料到。”那么她建议该如何对待豹纹装？“本人最佳建议是高高兴兴接受豹纹装，”她说。“勇敢无畏地去尝试它。”

The spot market for men: Get in touch with your inner caveman

男士豹纹装：满足内心狂野

“I guess animal prints have always been a classic – just never in menswear,” says Topman’s creative director Gordon Richardson of the animal print phenomenon that is crossing over into men’s wardrobes. “With the explosion of print and pattern we’ve been witnessing in menswear, an animal print suddenly seems like an easy option for men as a way of updating their wardrobes and looking ahead of the curve.”

“我觉得动物斑纹装永远经典——只是原先从不与男装有关，”Topman创意总监戈登?理查德森(Gordon Richardson)这样评价动物斑纹装逐步进入男装领地这种现象。“随着动物斑纹及图样在男装系列遍地开花，它们似乎突然之间成为男士更新换代自己服装、实现超前时尚的捷径。”

But leopard print for men is not just about affordable T-shirts and sweatshirts; it is also being touted as an ultra luxurious investment buy, writes David Hayes.

但男士豹纹装并非只是寻常价位的T恤以及运动衫，它还忽悠成有投资价值的超奢侈消费品，大卫?海耶斯(David Hayes)如是写道。

“The ‘snow leopard’ patterned coat is in mink that has been needle-punched through cashmere jacquard,” says Kim Jones, creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, of the label’s star men’s buy (￡5,050). “It’s a brand new technique that we have developed exclusively.”

“雪豹纹外套用羊绒提花针轧的貂皮做就，”路易威登(Louis Vuitton)男装创意总监金姆?琼斯(Kim Jones)这样评价旗下推出的、专门针对男士大腕的款式（售价5050英镑）。“这项全新技术是我们专为男士开发。”

“I’ve always liked Stephen Sprouse’s leopard print for Louis Vuitton and wanted to make a masculine version of it,” adds Jones.

“我一直很喜欢史蒂芬?斯普劳斯(Stephen Sprouse)为路易威登设计的豹纹装，也想设计类似的男装系列，”琼斯补充道。

But will leopard print – however luxurious – sell to men? “Some of our clients are on a constant search for unique, limited edition products to make themselves stand out,” says Jones. “I’m always surprised by some of our top clients’ choices; it challenges us to come up with new developments season after season.”

但男士豹纹装（不管多奢华）销路会如何？“有些顾客一直在苦苦找寻独具风格的限量版服装，以使自己与众不同，”琼斯说。“我总是惊喜于某些高端客户的喜好；他们不断激励我们在每个服装季推陈出新。”

Another label pioneering leopard for men is British knit trio Sibling, who have made the leopard sweater their own (from ￡260). “All three of us adore animal prints,” says Cozette McCreery, who teamed up with Sid Bryan and Joe Bates to form Sibling in 2008. “Our wardrobes are like an African dictator’s interior decoration scheme: zebra, leopard spots, tiger stripes, snake print.

另一前卫豹纹男装设计师是英国针织服装三人组合Sibling，他们推出了自己的豹纹运动衫（售价260英镑起）。“我们三人都酷爱动物斑纹，”柯赛特?麦克里瑞(Cozette McCreery)说，她2008年与希德?布赖恩(Sid Bryan)以及乔?贝兹(Joe Bates)共同创建Sibling品牌。“我们的衣柜酷似非洲独裁者的室内装饰图案大荟萃：斑马纹、豹纹、狮纹以及蛇纹。

“Our very first collection incorporated a leopard pattern on a cashmere base and was a firm favourite with everyone from skater guys to city boys,” adds McCreery. Why leopard? “Because it was always our intention to steal from womenswear. Now it’s what store buyers and consumers expect, and, because it feels timeless to us, we are happy to oblige.”

“我们设计的第一个系列就把豹纹融入到羊绒制品中，从溜冰小伙到都市男孩，他们对我们的产品爱不释手，欲罢不能，” 麦克里瑞补充说。为何选择豹纹装？“因为我们一直有从女装嫁接设计风格的愿望。如今它是顾客与消费者期盼的产品，因为它永远不落伍，我们乐得顺水推舟。”

Have animal prints really become the new neutral for men? Some style insiders are having none of it. “No. It’s a trend, not a classic,” says Mr Porter’s Jeremy Langmead emphatically.

动物斑纹装是否真成了男士新的中性服装代表？某些时尚业内人士全然不这么认为。“不，它只是股流行风，而非时尚经典，”在线零售商Mr Porter主编杰里米?兰米德(Jeremy Langmead)强调说。

“For autumn we have bought animal prints spread broadly across accessories and clothing,” says Langmead. “From leopard sweaters by Raf Simons (￡610) and shirts by Acne (￡200) to Chelsea boots (￡650) by Burberry Prorsum and scarves (￡390) from Saint Laurent. But we also have a great pair of grey suede leopard print slippers by Jimmy Choo (￡395) which could easily be worn with a dinner suit and are incredibly elegant.”

“对于今年的秋冬季，我们采购了广泛运用动物斑纹的各种配饰及服装，”兰米德说。“从拉夫?西蒙斯(Raf Simons)的豹纹毛衣（售价610英镑）、艾克妮(Acne)的豹纹衬衣（售价210英镑）、博柏利?珀松(Burberry Prorsum)设计的短靴（Chelsea boots，售价650英镑）到圣?罗兰(Saint Laurent)的丝巾（售价390英镑），应有尽有。但我们也采购了Jimmy Choo灰色山羊皮豹纹拖鞋（售价395英镑），它设计精巧，很容易与晚宴小礼服搭配穿，显得特别温文尔雅。”

“It certainly heralds a new mood for print and texture in menswear. It will be interesting to see how this will evolve,” adds Langmead. “Who knew that men would willingly embrace florals a few years ago, let alone leopard?”

“这明确昭示了男装花样与质地出现了新的时尚趋势。能亲眼目睹它如何演变发展很有意义，”兰米德补充道。“几年前，谁都没预见到男士会心甘情愿地喜欢上花式服装？更甭提豹纹装了！”