设计师爱穿自己设计的衣服吗?

Fashion show finales follow a familiar rhythm: after the models march along the catwalk for a last hurrah, the designer comes out to take a bow. Their demeanour is often telling, an indicator of their attitude to the collection they've shown — are they a bag of nerves, or grinning from ear to ear?

时装周的压轴戏总是大同小异：模特们在T型台上最后一次华丽亮相后，设计师就会出场向观众鞠躬致谢，其行为举止通常反映了他们对展出时装系列的态度——是紧张得要死，还是乐得合不拢嘴？

Also noteworthy is the look they choose to take their bow in. Are they even wearing their own work? One of the most celebrated designers of our time never wears his own designs. Karl Lagerfeld may create the occasional menswear look at Chanel and he designs a whole men's collection for his eponymous label but he has long been a customer elsewhere: Dior Homme.

他们鞠躬致谢时所穿的行头同样是关注焦点。他们此时会穿自己设计的时装吗？我们这个时代最知名的设计师从不穿自己设计的时装登台致谢。卡尔·拉格菲尔德（Karl Lagerfeld，绰号老佛爷）或许时不时会设计一把香奈儿(Chanel)男装，他也设计了自己同名品牌的全部男装，但长久以来，他一直是迪奥男装(Dior Homme)的忠实客户。

Lagerfeld started wearing Dior Homme when he was in his late sixties, shedding six-and-a-half stone to fit into the skinny styles of the label's then designer Hedi Slimane. Lagerfeld has stayed loyal to the brand ever since, even after Slimane, now creative director of Saint Laurent, quit in 2006. And although the label is known for its emphasis on youth, Lagerfeld, now in his eighties, remains one of Dior Homme's most visible clients.

老佛爷临近古稀之年才开始穿迪奥男装，他足足减了40公斤体重才穿上时任迪奥设计总监艾迪·斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)设计的窄版男装，从此以后他一直“痴心不改”，甚至2006年艾迪·斯理曼（如今是圣洛兰(Saint Laurent)创意总监）离开迪奥后依然如故。尽管迪奥的关注重点一直是年轻人，但如今已是耄耋之年的老佛爷仍是迪奥男装的忠实拥趸。

Raf Simons, meanwhile, Dior's creative director of womenswear, is partial to Prada: his presence in the documentary film Dior I (2014) is most clearly announced via his distinctive studded Prada sneakers and he often takes his catwalk bow in a head-to-toe Prada look. For his first Christian Dior ready-to-wear show he wore a vintage denim jacket with red stripes by Austrian designer Helmut Lang.

与此同时，如今迪奥女装创意总监拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)则对普拉达(Prada)情有独钟：在迪奥2014年记录片《璀璨风华Dior之夜》(Dior and I)中，担任主演的他以一双与众不同、打满饰钉的普拉达运动鞋出场，时尚格调显露无遗；他常常从头到脚一副普拉达行头登台致谢。举办自己的首个迪奥成衣展时，他穿的是奥地利设计师赫尔穆特·朗(Helmut Lang)设计的饰有红色条纹、复古风格的牛仔夹克。

And yet many designers do wear their own work, especially if the brand carries their surname. Editors scan the wardrobe of Miuccia Prada for clues to her latest collection: is she feeling utilitarian, elegant or purposefully off-kilter? When Donatella Versace takes her bow, she often wears a look from the collection she's just shown — for AW15, it was a pinstriped, flared pantsuit. And even Simons has worn pieces from his own-label collaboration with Sterling Ruby

然而，许多设计师的确会穿自己设计的作品，尤其是穿同名品牌的衣饰。时尚主编留意到缪西娅·普拉达(Miuccia Prada)个人所穿的衣服，希望找出它们与她最新设计的时装之间的关系：是实用、优雅还是有意惊世骇俗？当唐娜泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)在T型台上鞠躬致谢时，穿的行头往往选自自己刚刚展示的时装系列————她身穿细条纹喇叭款套装参加了2015年秋冬季时装展(AW15)。甚至拉夫·西蒙斯也选择穿自己与斯特林·鲁比(Sterling Ruby)合作设计的同名品牌时装。

So if the name is on the label, does it mean the clothes will always be on the designer's back? Not necessarily. "I've never been into wearing clothing with my own brand name inside," says Jonathan Anderson, designer behind JW Anderson and now creative director of Loewe. "I find it odd and arrogant."

那么，如果标签上印有自己名字，是否意味着设计师始终会穿它呢？也不尽然。“我一点都不喜欢穿自己的同名品牌服装。”JW Anderson时尚总监乔纳森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)说，他如今出任罗意威(Loewe)创意总监。“我觉得这样做既怪异，又显得自大。”

Anderson's own wardrobe is a familiar uniform: crewneck sweater, faded blue jeans, Nike sneakers. It's entirely opposite to the menswear looks he creates for his own label's catwalk presentations, which have included bandeau tops and frilled shorts. He seems to favour a clean-palette approach: keeping himself neutral so as to not deflect from his experimentation elsewhere.

安德森个人所穿衣橱是众所周知的千篇一律：圆领羊毛衫、褪色牛仔裤及耐克运动鞋。它们与他发布会上推出的男装（细带式上衣与镶花边的短裤）风马牛不相及。他似乎对清爽颜色情有独钟：个人始终穿中性色服装，为的是专心致志于自己的大胆时尚尝试。

This kind of wardrobe is common among fashion designers. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler appear to have no desire to create menswear for themselves or others, dressing instead in a similar style to Anderson: crewnecks, polo shirts or button-downs, usually with jeans and sneakers. Mary Katrantzou, meanwhile, recent winner of the 2015 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, may have built her business on print and embellishment but she is usually found in a black knit dress by Azzedine Alaa. Alaa himself has perhaps the ultimate clean-palette wardrobe: for decades he has worn black cotton Chinese pyjamas, fastened by simple floral buttoning.

设计师个人喜欢穿中性风格服装，这在时尚圈里随处可见。普罗恩萨·施罗(Proenza Schouler)的双星组合杰克·麦克洛(Jack McCollough)与拉萨罗·赫南德斯(Lazaro Hernandez)似乎无心自创自己或别人的同名男装品牌，相反，他们的穿着风格酷似安德森：圆领衫、有领短袖运动T恤(polo shirt)或是纽扣领衬衫，通常用牛仔裤与运动鞋进行搭配。与此同时，2015英国时装理事会/《Vogue》设计师时尚基金奖新科得主玛丽·卡特兰楚(Mary Katrantzou)或许会创立印花纹与修饰类时装品牌，但自己却常穿阿瑟丁·阿拉亚(Azzedine Alaa)的黑色针织裙。阿拉亚本人所穿衣服也许最为单一：几十年来，他一直穿简单花扣款的黑色中式棉睡衣！