要买就买跨季装 A plan for all seasons
In 1985, when Donna Karan launched Seven Easy Pieces, the collection of stretch jersey bodysuits and separates intended to underpin every woman’s wardrobe whatever the season, she said, “I’m designing for an international woman. A creative person who never knows where a day is going to take them.”
1985年，唐娜愠灓(Donna Karan)推出了Seven Easy Pieces七件装，它由紧身弹力运动衣及其它单件装组成，能让每位女性游刃有余地应对每个季节。她曾这样说过：“我专为满世界忙活的女强人设计。时装设计师永远不知道这些女强人的行踪有多么飘忽不定。”
Thirty years on, Karan has stepped away from her label but the trans-seasonal concept is more relevant than ever. With our increasingly globetrotting lifestyles, wardrobes are becoming less and less delineated. The notion of trans-seasonal dressing (clothes that work beyond their allotted autumn/winter or spring/summer slots) has for some time been on the minds of designers and buyers; now it is becoming the norm for shoppers.
30年后的今天，卡兰已退居二线（不再担任自己品牌的设计总监），但跨季概念如今比以往任何时候都显得重要。随着环球型生活方式日趋盛行，女性衣橱的季节性界限变得越发模糊。一段时间以来，跨季服饰的理念一直萦绕在设计师与买家的脑海；如今，它越来越成为时尚买家的不二选择。
“Seasons are becoming less relevant because the customer no longer thinks in those terms,” says Sarah Rutson, Net-a-Porter’s vice-president of global buying. They are increasingly drawn to “buy-now, wear-now fashion with longevity,” she says. “The concept of shopping ‘out of season’ is becoming obsolete because the market-space in which we operate is global.”
“季节性时装已越来越不重要，因为消费者内心不再以此来界定。”电商Net-a-Porter全球采购部副总裁莎拉圠森(Sarah Rutson)说。消费者越来越青睐“即买即穿、长时间穿的行头。”她说。“过季购物的概念日趋过时，因为我们关注的市场已呈全球化。”
Our wardrobes reflect lives that are packed with travel across time zones and climates. “It’s about investing in quality product that you can wear all year round — the perfect pant, the shirt, the blazer you can layer,” says Rutson. Clothes that suggest simplicity and co-ordination — while, importantly, looking au courant.
女性的衣橱反映了当今跨越不同时空与气候带的环球型生活现状。“购置适合一年四季的高品质服装至关重要——能够安放在行李箱的心仪裤子、衬衣以及运动夹克。”罗森说。携带的行头衣服必须讲究简约与搭配——同时外观必须与时俱进也至关重要。
Lesson one: don’t confuse trans-seasonal dressing with playing it safe. A host of designers have perfected clothes that elegantly negotiate crossing into a new season. LA-based Rosetta Getty is attracting fans with a version of laid-back luxury delivered in the shape of long cotton shirt-dresses, sleeveless cashmere cardigans and wide-leg cropped trousers — all ideal for layering as temperatures fall.
经验教训一：不能把跨季服装与注重稳妥混为一谈。很多设计师精益求精，设计的服装能巧妙过渡至下个时装季。来自洛杉矶的设计师罗塞塔盖蒂(Rosetta Getty)推出由纯棉衬衣式长款连衣裙、无袖羊绒衫以及宽腿七分裤构成的休闲款奢侈装后，拥趸趋之若鹜——随着气温不断转凉，它们是随箱携带的理想行头。
In New York, Tomas Maier has reinvigorated his eponymous line, making clothes suitable for any climate, while The Row is establishing elegant column skirts, softly tailored jackets and tonal tunic dresses that appeal to both jet-setters and the fashion-literate. Christophe Lemaire specialises in lightweight macs, woollen wrap skirts and cotton apron dresses while other pin-ups for this movement include Caroline de Maigret, with her wardrobe of wide trousers and artfully crumpled men’s shirts, and Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni, who mastered layering long before the rest of the world caught on.
在纽约，托马斯迈尔(Tomas Maier)通过设计全天候服装，成功让自己的同名品牌再焕新颜；而The Row则推出了漂亮半身裙(column skirt)、得体又服帖的夹克衫以及多色调束腰裙装，让周游世界的富翁和时尚拥趸爱不释手。克里斯托夫勒梅尔(Christophe Lemaire)则专门推出了轻便雨衣、羊毛裹裙以及纯棉连衫围裙，其他流行跨季服装的知名推手则包括了名模卡洛琳德麦格雷(Caroline de Maigret)与玛尼(Marni)时尚总监康秀露愠斯第里奥尼(Consuelo Castiglioni)。前者衣橱挂满了宽腿裤与摺皱巧妙设计的男款衬衣，后者则早于跨季概念流行风之前就已对此轻车熟路。
“Each time you buy a piece from these brands it’s like collecting something for your wardrobe that you know you will own for a long time,” says Alex Eagle, creative director of The Store Berlin and Alex Eagle Walton Street in London. As well as stocking many of these designers, Eagle recently launched her own line, which she describes as comprising “components that are multifunctional without being complicated, things that you grab when you’re getting ready in a hurry and need to look pulled-together”. The capsule includes a scarf-neck dress that doubles as a tunic, tailored trousers and a silk shirt — all in black-and-White.
“每次买进上述品牌的时装，自己就知道好比为自己衣橱收藏能长久保留的‘宝贝’。”亚历克斯伊格尔(Alex Eagle)说，她是自己柏林与伦敦沃尔顿街(Walton Street)同名时尚店的创意总监。除了网罗诸多跨季设计师外，她最近还推出了自己的同名系列，她自称由“几款简单实用的服装组成，匆忙之中就能果断买下的服装，而且彼此非常搭配。”该系列包括了一款黑白色围巾领连衣裙，它集束腰外衣、定制裤子及真丝短裙于一体。
Here’s what to add to your shopping list: two crisp cotton shirts, one in white, one in blue (try Christophe Lemaire, Marie Marot, Protagonist and Acne for contemporary cuts and subtle details); an unidentifiable handbag (those from The Row, Myriam Schaefer and Philipp Bree 0110 are the most discreet); a round-the-clock black dress (thank you, Catherine Quin); and fine-gauge jerseys for layering from Vince or Crippen. According to Louise Trotter, creative director of Joseph, “It is all about longevity and classicism with a bit of an edge. Clothes with slouch, a relaxed fit and quality are our best sellers.
诸位购物时，务必留意以下东西：两条挺括的纯棉短裙（一款为白色，另一款为蓝色，你们若是青睐当代裁剪式样以及讲究细枝末节的设计，不妨试试克里斯托夫勒梅尔、Marie Marot、Protagonist以及艾克妮(Acne)等品牌）、难以识别品牌的手袋（The Row、Myriam Schaefer以及Philipp Bree 0110那些手袋做工最为精细）、黑色全天候连衣裙（拜托诸位试一下Catherine Quin）以及Vince或 Crippen的细针距运动衫。在Joseph创意总监路易斯礠坲祿(Louise Trotter)看来：“归根到底是要能够长时间跨季穿以及略现新潮的古典风格。慵懒、休闲以及质量上乘的服饰最为抢手。”
We have started to see easy, unfussy pieces with more masculine cuts getting attention over the structured silhouettes of days gone by.”
于是我们开始看到：“剪裁风格男性化的休闲简约款式已经逐渐盖过旧款式服装的风头。”
Blazers are an excellent solution for bridging seasons but be sure to opt for an elongated, masculine cut; throw over a sleeveless summer dress or team with co-ordinating trousers when autumn knocks. The label Blazé Milano was founded by three Italian fashion editors, Corrada Rodriguez d’Acri, Sole Torlonia and Delfina Pinardi, with a simple goal: “One product, made well, and made in Italy.” Their handmade blazers come in heavy wool, silk matelassé, raffia and mid-weight linens, although Pinardi explains that the use of heavier textiles such as loden, mohair and heavy wool allows their blazers to be worn “like a little coat, in the winter or in a cold city”.
运动夹克是跨季的绝佳选择，但务必选择男式剪裁风格的细长款式；套在无袖夏季连衣裙外面、或是秋季来临之际与合适的裤子相搭配。Blazé Milano由科拉达科达里(Corrada Rodriguez d’Acri)、索尔堠洛尼亚(Sole Torlonia)以及德尔菲娜皮纳尔迪(Delfina Pinardi)三位意大利时尚编辑创建，其宗旨简单明了：“精心打造的意大利产品。”他们的运动夹克用厚羊毛、马特拉塞凸纹真丝(silk matelassé)、酒椰叶纤维以及中等重量的亚麻布手工做成，尽管皮纳尔迪解释说采用罗登昵、马海毛以及厚羊毛等厚重面料制作的运动夹克穿起来“就像小大衣，可在冬日里或是气候寒冷的城市御寒”。
White, black, grey, navy and camel are shortcuts to a cohesive wardrobe but it’s not all about desaturating your colour palette. “I have a dress by Rosetta in bottle green which I live in, and she is now doing an exclusive for us in her beautiful red silk,” says Eagle.
打造理想混搭的衣橱，最简单的方法就是添置白色、黑色、蓝色、深蓝色以及驼色服装，但此举压根不是为了减少诸位衣橱的颜色品类。“我平时就常穿罗塞塔设计的一款深绿色连衣裙，她如今用好看的红色真丝面料为我们设计一款限量版。”伊格尔说。
Likewise, Rutson notes the impact of Chloé’s dramatic maxidresses (“a continuity piece to be styled up with sandals in the summer and boots in the fall”) and Gucci’s colourful separates (“ideal for trans-seasonal dressing by partnering statement blouses and pants with season-specific items”).
同样，罗森目睹了蔻依(Chloé)漂亮长裙（“这件跨季连衣裙夏季能与凉鞋搭配穿，秋季则可与长皮靴相搭配”）以及古驰(Gucci)艳丽单件装引发的震撼效果（“把定制衬衣及裤子与特定季节的单件装混配，就是最理想的跨季行头”）。
Does it all sound a little serious? Loosening the reins on your accessories will enliven an otherwise pared-down look. Trotter relies on great shoes to lift her wardrobe go-tos, while Eagle recommends Alice Cicolini’s enamel gobstopper rings to prevent an outfit from becoming subdued. Also worth noting is Sophie Bille Brahe’s contemporary range of pearls: understated and luxurious. As Caroline de Maigret said: it takes effort to look effortless.
这一切听起来是否有些言重？大胆选择配饰，就能让简约型装束锦上添花。特罗特借助大号鞋提升自己跨季服装的档次，而伊格尔为使全身行头不那么压抑，力推Alice Cicolini设计的超大款彩色耳环。丹麦设计师苏菲比莱布拉赫(Sophie Bille Brahe)设计的当代风格珍珠配饰诸位也不妨留意：既简约又奢华。正如卡洛琳德麦格雷评价道：无为相，实则用心为之也。
